3.18.2005
Update on Keisler Hydraulic Clutch Actuator Kit Install - Solved!!!
If you remember from my last post, I had to cut the master cylinder pushrod down about 2 inches because it was too long for the heim joint to attach to my clutch pedal at the stock (recommended) location. Once I got it all installed I was having problems because the clutch would not fully disengage - I had to force it into gear to drive it, and was constantly jamming the pedal into the floorboard to get it to disengage. I was really bummin' because I had also just installed a brand-new transmission and didn't want to trash it driving with no clutch.
I tried re-bleeding the system, adjusting the pushrod to it's fullest extent, etc. No joy. I contacted George at Keisler who said it was probably because I had cut down the pushrod, and now I was not getting enough travel to fully compress the master. They suggested drilling a new hole at an attaching point in a "lower spot" than the original point, to try to gain some more length.
Examining the pedals, I could see that due to the way the linkage on the pedal works, drilling the hole "lower" would not translate to much difference, if any, in pushrod travel.
Another thought I had was to grind away at the pedal stop to allow it to rise up farther. This seemed like it would help a little, but possibly not enough, and I really didn't feel like pulling the pedals again to do something that might or might not work.
I finally figured out that I could install the clutch master through the firewall, from the OTHER SIDE, e.g., from the engine compartment into the cab, with the mounting flange in the engine compartment rather than inside the car. It seemed like the mounting plate on the inside would provide enough support, and this would also move the whole deal slightly lower down the firewall, providing even more travel.
I had to grind away A LOT at the mounting plate opening and bolt holes to jimmy it all into place, and I had to mount it about 1/2" lower down the firewall to work with the existing clutch pushrod hole, but I finally got it in there. The only real problem I have is that the fitting at the tip of the master now presses against the inner fender, and cocks the whole setup slightly to the right. I'd dimple the fender there but can't figure a way to get at the spot.
It looks a little weird, but hey, it works! I lengthened my (previously shortened) pushrod with a couple of sleeve nuts and an extra bit of threaded rod, but I now have an additional 1" of pushrod travel and it has done the trick. There is no noticeable firewall flex. I adjusted the pushrod so there is just the tiniest bit of free play at the pedal, and my clutch point is now at a nice 3 or 4 inches above the floorboard.
I think Keisler should provide a better solution for us early A-body guys, because now that the geometry is correct it works great! All they'd have to do is weld the master's mounting flange about an inch farther up the cylinder and it would work perfectly, not requiring this kluge-ey method.
If you remember from my last post, I had to cut the master cylinder pushrod down about 2 inches because it was too long for the heim joint to attach to my clutch pedal at the stock (recommended) location. Once I got it all installed I was having problems because the clutch would not fully disengage - I had to force it into gear to drive it, and was constantly jamming the pedal into the floorboard to get it to disengage. I was really bummin' because I had also just installed a brand-new transmission and didn't want to trash it driving with no clutch.
I tried re-bleeding the system, adjusting the pushrod to it's fullest extent, etc. No joy. I contacted George at Keisler who said it was probably because I had cut down the pushrod, and now I was not getting enough travel to fully compress the master. They suggested drilling a new hole at an attaching point in a "lower spot" than the original point, to try to gain some more length.
Examining the pedals, I could see that due to the way the linkage on the pedal works, drilling the hole "lower" would not translate to much difference, if any, in pushrod travel.
Another thought I had was to grind away at the pedal stop to allow it to rise up farther. This seemed like it would help a little, but possibly not enough, and I really didn't feel like pulling the pedals again to do something that might or might not work.
I finally figured out that I could install the clutch master through the firewall, from the OTHER SIDE, e.g., from the engine compartment into the cab, with the mounting flange in the engine compartment rather than inside the car. It seemed like the mounting plate on the inside would provide enough support, and this would also move the whole deal slightly lower down the firewall, providing even more travel.
I had to grind away A LOT at the mounting plate opening and bolt holes to jimmy it all into place, and I had to mount it about 1/2" lower down the firewall to work with the existing clutch pushrod hole, but I finally got it in there. The only real problem I have is that the fitting at the tip of the master now presses against the inner fender, and cocks the whole setup slightly to the right. I'd dimple the fender there but can't figure a way to get at the spot.
It looks a little weird, but hey, it works! I lengthened my (previously shortened) pushrod with a couple of sleeve nuts and an extra bit of threaded rod, but I now have an additional 1" of pushrod travel and it has done the trick. There is no noticeable firewall flex. I adjusted the pushrod so there is just the tiniest bit of free play at the pedal, and my clutch point is now at a nice 3 or 4 inches above the floorboard.
I think Keisler should provide a better solution for us early A-body guys, because now that the geometry is correct it works great! All they'd have to do is weld the master's mounting flange about an inch farther up the cylinder and it would work perfectly, not requiring this kluge-ey method.
# posted by jb @ 10:50 AM 
